After Kirkjubaejarklaustur’s green scenery, desert strikes back. It looks like far west, with these wild horses and yellow stones.

The dream does not last. Approaching Vatnajokull, third biggest glacier in the world behind Antarctic and Groenland, the ground becomes all flat, like the bottom of a dried lake. In october 1996, a seism under the glacier drew magma to the surface. By contact, the icecap (up to 1 km thick), melt down and caused a huge flow. Several days after, the stream found a way out towards plain and swept it all. Now, long wooden bridges have been built to restore road traffic.